Good afternoon,

Just purchased a Ensign and very excited to get started on it! I will be repainting the deck as well as the hull. In some places, the rub rail is damaged and is not fitting correctly. How is the rub rail attached to the boat and is this something that is easily replaced? Is there a replacement rub rail that somewhat matches the original? Thanks.

Chuck

Hi Chuck,

Congratulations on your new Ensign and welcome to the class. You can buy a rub rail that fits your boat at Ensign Spars. Here is the link Search: 3 results found for "rub rail" | Ensign Spars. They also have a video showing the installation.

Best Wishes,

Pete Kogut

#856

Chuck, Congrats on your Ensign. I just repainted my deck as well and there is a thread on the forum on deck refurbishment. During that project I removed the rub rail, cleaned it with Interlux solvent 216 which works great!. If it really is damaged to the point of replacement you can buy a new rub rail. There is a plastic insert that attaches to the hull/deck joint flange. You can rivet that insert onto the flange using pop rivets. I ended up also using 3M adhesive 5200 to glue it on in addition to rivets. The 5200 does an excellent job, the rivets I've found are subject to wear and tear over time. Once the insert is affixed to the hull/deck flange it is quite easy to snap the new rub rail on.

Overall, replacing the rub rail is a quite satisfying project - not too hard or too time consuming, not too many tools required and the end result is really nice.

Good luck!

Robin

Thanks for the input! So, Ensign Spars is up and operational? I read somewhere that they had shut their doors.

Chuck and Everyone,

Ensign Spars is indeed operational! It was sold to Bob Conkey and Greg Collins a few months ago , who are long time Ensign owners that have moved the operation to Cleveland, Ohio. They are gradually restocking the inventory and you can follow them on their website via the link I sent you. This is a big undertaking and a work in progress. They have the hull molds to make new boats and are already making new decks and masts. They will also be doing complete restorations.

Pete Kogut

#856

Ed,

That has to be one of the nicest hull deck joints I've ever seen. Mine is definitely getting a bit raggedy after almost 60 years.

I meant to say that I used additional rivets, smaller ones, for the rub rail insert

Robin.

Suzanna,

I purchased and have received the Rub Rail kit from Ensign Spars. They also sent me information to get to and watch the video on installing the Rub Rail. However, the video does not show how to remove the old Rub Rail. Can you please tell me the process you followed to remove the old Rub Rail? What is the first step to begin the removal process? Did you start at the bow or stern? Did you have to use a heat gun to make it more pliable and thus easier to remove?

Thanks,

Donnie Georg

Ensign #221

Donnie, I’m not sure if I did it the best way, but I just removed mine tonight buy using a multi tool (osculating). I cut through the face of the rub rail cutting it in half, stopping at the t-channel as to not destroy it. I was removing the t-channel so it wasn’t a huge concern. Took me about an hour. I’m sure there’s an easier way but given that it was cold and brittle it wasn’t really hard at all.

Use a heat gun; you won't have to do any cutting, and the I channel will stay in place if it's not totally shot. Start at the bow and work back each side. You will need the heat gun to install the new rub rail.

Chuck,

I ordered a bunch of parts from Ensign Spars in Cleveland in May and Bob got them all to me quite quickly.

Robin

My #983 with a new Ensign Spars deck has the T-shaped plastic piece attached to the deck with small stainless sheet metal screws. These have held well, and are certainly easier to remove if you have to get at the hull/deck joint at some future point.

Last I checked (just now) the link to the rub rail installation video at Ensign Spars does not work.

I recently removed all but the stern end of my rub rail to fix a leaking hull/deck joint. Getting it back on after cleaning was not a walk in the park. You'll need a heat gun to allow the rail to stretch the required length, three feet at a time. I did this on a 60 degree day, maybe easier in the summer sun.

Dick Beverly

Tracy #983

Milwaukee WI

Dick,

You are right, it would be a bear to remove the insert after gluing it on. I suppose some sort of cutting wheel would do the job but it would be a pain to have to do..

I was worried about exactly the issue you described as I had it off for the whole winter and wondered if the length would have changed. Thankfully it did not though there was a bit of labor in getting in back on the insert around the deck.

Robin