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Ensign Sailing Forum

Rub Rail
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Use a heat gun; you won't have to do any cutting, and the I channel will stay in place if it's not totally shot. Start at the bow and work back each side. You will need the heat gun to install the new rub rail.

Donnie, I’m not sure if I did it the best way, but I just removed mine tonight buy using a multi tool (osculating). I cut through the face of the rub rail cutting it in half, stopping at the t-channel as to not destroy it. I was removing the t-channel so it wasn’t a huge concern. Took me about an hour. I’m sure there’s an easier way but given that it was cold and brittle it wasn’t really hard at all.

Suzanna,

I purchased and have received the Rub Rail kit from Ensign Spars. They also sent me information to get to and watch the video on installing the Rub Rail. However, the video does not show how to remove the old Rub Rail. Can you please tell me the process you followed to remove the old Rub Rail? What is the first step to begin the removal process? Did you start at the bow or stern? Did you have to use a heat gun to make it more pliable and thus easier to remove?

Thanks,

Donnie Georg

Ensign #221

Go to coosacomposites.com 
They have an area on the site where you can purchase it depending on where you live. Also Boat Outfitters appears to sell partial sheets. 
I know  you can buy it from Hamiton Marine


Robert/Suzanna: Following...can you share a link to Coosa? 
Kind regards,
Symantha

Try and make the opening as straight as possible. Then figure out the size Coosa you need. I only had to do @ 18". But is worked well. I like that Coosa a lot. Just made some rudders out of it! Will not absorb water. Good luck!
Thanks Rob! This is very helpful-  I had thought to create male and female molds and layup new pieces that we glass to the hull and then rivet them together... we were talking about possibly using coosa like you describe.


I just replaced a portion of my "deck & hull junction" on #762. I cleaned and cut out the area and made @ 1/4' gap / opening. between the 2 sections. I wedged a piece of Coosa board in the space. The Coosa stuck out the same distance as the original hull section. Prior to putting the Coosa in I ground out the top section and bottom to get to clean fiberglass. I then glassed the Coosa to the boat. Came out pretty good and is very solid. in order to avoid bubbles when you glass I suggest you do the top and bottom sections separately 2-3 layers. sorry no photos.         
I pulled the rub rail off, and parts of the deck hull joint are missing .. evidently they bumped into the dock or something over the years so I am rebuilding the lip from the deck and the lip from the hull that are the seem of the boat. Have others done this rebuild - any pointers. Here are some images of the damage I uncovered.
It's an easy fix, but it would take a long time to write it out. 
Your boat came with a rubber type and just was pulled on or glued on. 
You should consider replacing the whole rub rail with the newer style if it hasn't been replaced yet. 

Zeke


Did you use a pop rivet for the Deck hull joint? Also any insights on repairing the flange itself? I just bought #663 and when I removed the rub rail I am missing sections of the flange connecting the deck and the hull. I plan to make a mold to recreate the the flange pieces and then connect them with butyl tape and 5200 and then rivet those pieces together - any insights or advice / experience doing this?

Thanks,

Suzanna

Ed,

That has to be one of the nicest hull deck joints I've ever seen. Mine is definitely getting a bit raggedy after almost 60 years.


I meant to say that I used additional rivets, smaller ones, for the rub rail insert


Robin.

Found the rivet info...
 
Riveting the Sheer Clamp... There will be one of these little 3/16" X 1/2" gems every 6 inches for a total of 124...
 
No photo description available.
 
In a message dated 6/7/2021 10:55:15 PM Pacific Standard Time, edvgs@aol.com writes:
 
Hi guys,
 
When I reattached my deck to the hull, Chad advised that the rivets you are talking about are to keep the two together, not to attach the rub rail. I have not installed my new rail as yet, but have done the riveting. I don't have the rivet size or spacing at the moment, but I'll try to lay my hands on that info. Watching Zeke's video of his rub rail installation, I believe he's using screws driven in from the bottom to hold the rub rail in place, perhaps only until the adhesive cures.
 
Maybe Zeke and Chad can clarify...
 
Ed
Eracer 1484
 
In a message dated 6/7/2021 9:00:59 AM Pacific Standard Time, ensignsailing@ensignclass.com writes:
 
Posted by: Peter Kogut on 6/7/2021 at 8:59 AM
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Chuck and Everyone,

Ensign Spars is indeed operational! It was sold to Bob Conkey and Greg Collins a few months ago , who are long time Ensign owners that have moved the operation to Cleveland, Ohio. They are gradually restocking the inventory and you can follow them on their website via the link I sent you. This is a big undertaking and a work in progress. They have the hull molds to make new boats and are already making new decks and masts. They will also be doing complete restorations.

Pete Kogut

#856

Hi guys,
 
When I reattached my deck to the hull, Chad advised that the rivets you are talking about are to keep the two together, not to attach the rub rail. I have not installed my new rail as yet, but have done the riveting. I don't have the rivet size or spacing at the moment, but I'll try to lay my hands on that info. Watching Zeke's video of his rub rail installation, I believe he's using screws driven in from the bottom to hold the rub rail in place, perhaps only until the adhesive cures.
 
Maybe Zeke and Chad can clarify...
 
Ed
Eracer 1484
 
In a message dated 6/7/2021 9:00:59 AM Pacific Standard Time, ensignsailing@ensignclass.com writes:
 
Posted by: Peter Kogut on 6/7/2021 at 8:59 AM
View/reply online
Reply to forum at ensignsailing@ensignclass.com
If this message contains inappropriate content, you can report the message online

Chuck and Everyone,

Ensign Spars is indeed operational! It was sold to Bob Conkey and Greg Collins a few months ago , who are long time Ensign owners that have moved the operation to Cleveland, Ohio. They are gradually restocking the inventory and you can follow them on their website via the link I sent you. This is a big undertaking and a work in progress. They have the hull molds to make new boats and are already making new decks and masts. They will also be doing complete restorations.

Pete Kogut

#856

Dick,

You are right, it would be a bear to remove the insert after gluing it on. I suppose some sort of cutting wheel would do the job but it would be a pain to have to do..


I was worried about exactly the issue you described as I had it off for the whole winter and wondered if the length would have changed. Thankfully it did not though there was a bit of labor in getting in back on the insert around the deck.


Robin

Chuck,

I ordered a bunch of parts from Ensign Spars in Cleveland in May and Bob got them all to me quite quickly.

Robin

My #983 with a new Ensign Spars deck has the T-shaped plastic piece attached to the deck with small stainless sheet metal screws. These have held well, and are certainly easier to remove if you have to get at the hull/deck joint at some future point.


Last I checked (just now) the link to the rub rail installation video at Ensign Spars does not work.


I recently removed all but the stern end of my rub rail to fix a leaking hull/deck joint. Getting it back on after cleaning was not a walk in the park. You'll need a heat gun to allow the rail to stretch the required length, three feet at a time. I did this on a 60 degree day, maybe easier in the summer sun.


Dick Beverly

Tracy #983

Milwaukee WI

Chuck and Everyone,

Ensign Spars is indeed operational! It was sold to Bob Conkey and Greg Collins a few months ago , who are long time Ensign owners that have moved the operation to Cleveland, Ohio. They are gradually restocking the inventory and you can follow them on their website via the link I sent you. This is a big undertaking and a work in progress. They have the hull molds to make new boats and are already making new decks and masts. They will also be doing complete restorations.

Pete Kogut

#856

Thanks for the input! So, Ensign Spars is up and operational? I read somewhere that they had shut their doors.

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