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Pearson Rudder Drawings found on my Google Drive
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Zeke,

I would like one of the 50% discounted mast boots in WHITE.   I will be in Dunedin in January and can pick it up from you then or you can ship it to me at:

Jody Graul

65A Bass Point Road

Nahant, MA  01908

Thank you.

Jody

 

 

 

To All,

As I told you a while ago I have been making some mast boots. This was one of the most involved parts when we were building the new boats. It is a very expensive part to have designed and produced in less you're making thousands of them. 
So I have been experimenting with new rubber silicones and the molding process. 
So far I have made a number and am pretty satisfied with the results. I have had one exposed to the Florida harsh conditions for about 4 months now and it has not lost any of its integrity so far. Each one is coming out better and better. 
I think the price is going to be around 50 to 60 dollars. 
I have about 8 that I would like to get out there and get your feedback. So if you need a mast boot I would be willing to give a 50% discount on these first out of the molds plus shipping. I can make them any colors from white to dark Gray. 
If you were to try to make one of these yourself you would have many more dollars invested than 50.00. If you're interested email me at zeke.durica@gmail.com

Zeke  

Thanks!

We cut 3 rudders today out of 1.5” Coosa. I’ll post some pictures of my process soon.

Your drawings are great.

You should  try and figure out a way to get them on a Pdf.. so a clearer version can be posted on the Ensign website.

My rudders will be one piece and the attachment rods from  the rudder post that I am planning to use appear to very similar to the Ensign specs.

Bob Panico

 

When routing the cove for the 1" shaft, use this bit on a shaper or router table. It is cheap and may only do your one rudder. A carbide bit could be substituted. The coved edge of the board will be flat against the router table.


https://www.amazon.com/Rannb-Diameter-Carpenter-Woodworking-Shank-Pack/dp/B07FSK6FMP/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8eOLBhC1ARIsAOzx5cG9ZinuMISZzTVbZgAJla_Z_gn_vEKMOxHFq2DuIyLNZKKIuH6wWfYaAs9cEALw_wcB&hvadid=198220472285&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003297&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7794328834721714133&hvtargid=kwd-343010414852&hydadcr=28570_10166315&keywords=1%2Bcove%2Brouter%2Bbit&qid=1635346599&sr=8-2&th=1


When drilling for the bolt and drift holes, you could have the rudder boards glued together. Then lay the rudder blank on a table with the edge that will be coved in 6" or more from the edge of the table. Place a 7/16" thick block on the table as a guide and use a brad point ship auger bit to drill the 3/8" bolt holes. The block will space the bit at the center of your 1-1/8" rudder blank. You might want to clamp the rudder shaft to the rudder blank and use the holes in the rudder shaft to guide the drill bit in addition to the 7/16" block noted above..


Ward

Looks a little skinny to me. 
When we designed the new glass rudder mold we took measurements of like 12 rudders off boats we had access to at the time besides some drawings we had.

Everyone was different. Most important are the top, bottom, and thickness. If the contour is off a little I think you're fine.
Good Luck. 

Zeke



I found these Drawings of the rudder by Pearson in 1963 on my Google drive. I hope they help in the recent conversation.

If you purchase 5/4 honduras mahogany which will be finished at 1-1/8" thick and then fiberglass, you will end up with the 1-1/4" max thickness called out on the drawing. When sanding the wood blank, reduce thickness to account for the fiberglass skins..

Sorry, I do not know how to get these on the forum in a PDF.


Ward

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