Skip to main content

ECA Logo Version 11 

Ensign Sailing Forum

Flotation
searchSearch
Search

Hi All,

Looking for suggestions for best flotation to use, how much to use, and where it should go. Interpreter (1068) currently has none, it was all removed. The Ensign Design Sketches available on the website shows flotation in the forward compartment and flotation blocks under deck on each side behind the coaming boards. Should it be added under the seat in the cabin? Should the bow compartment be completely filled with it? Best place to purchase flotation?

Thanks,

Jim Harris

Interpreter 1068

Fleet 11

Dallas, TX

You need about 45 to 48 cubic ft of the lowest density closed cell foam you can find to float the boat. Pearson just made those numbers by scamming the bow, stern, and  Bunks with no fudge factor built in. If you have 5 cubic ft of missing or compromised floam your boat may not float. 
We added about 30% for in dead spots like under the cabin floor and mast step, Head compartment, and under the cockpit in a water tight compartment in the aft keel compartment that came up in the shape of a mushroom that took about 5 cubic ft alone, but still had room for a outboard motor storage and bilge. The lower you get it the better floatation characteristics you get.  
The Photos are of a boat with glass seats and floors we actually tested and you can see it floats like a cork. The extra dead spots are not even noticeable. Under the cabin floor adds strength to the floor. 
I can send more photos of the spots if you'd like.

I sank a boat once in Lake Erie and had to be rescued and it wasn't a good feeling treading water a mile off shore in 5 to 7ft seas, so I made sure that would be addressed on the new Ensign Classics.

Zeke



Hi All!


I swamped Lorelei in Annapolis a few years back. She floated, but it was a very slow tow back to the dock with the waves at deck level. Yes, Lorelei has been through a lot of experiences. But she’s a solidly built Ensign… like a Timex, she takes a lickin’ and keeps on tickin’!


It would have been nice to be able to self-rescue, but that requires at least six inches of freeboard. You gotta be able to bail faster than the waves wash water in.


I have considered a couple of things to make it possible to self-rescue (not that I ever. Intend to swamp her again… but then, you never do). Inflatable flotation bags under the benches would require the benches be solidly attached to the floorboards and the floorboards solidly attached to the hull. Another idea involved preserving the cabin air space by sealing off the companionway, isolating sea water to the cockpit, but such a panel would never be handy when it’s needed…


The density of salt vs fresh water makes a difference in flotation.


The point here is, you should not skimp on Ensign flotation. It has 1200 pounds of lead to keep afloat.


All my best,


Bud Brown


Jim,

Ensign 1068 has no flotation?  Was it there when I sold it to you (I believe that's the boat I had)?

If not, I'm very sorry - I have no idea where it went.

--

Bill Hawk

Prickly Pair 1414

On 10/15/26 16:27, Jim Harris (dr.jimharris@yahoo.com) wrote:
Bill,
The flotation in the bow became water logged and it was removed.  I love 1068 and enjoy sailing her multiple times a week.  
Thank you for sending her my way!
Jim
Sent from my beach house 

On Oct 16, 2026, at 10:16 AM, Bill Hawk (whawk3@gmail.com) <ensignsailing@ensignclass.com> wrote:



Jim,

Ensign 1068 has no flotation?  Was it there when I sold it to you (I believe that's the boat I had)?

If not, I'm very sorry - I have no idea where it went.

--

Bill Hawk

Prickly Pair 1414

Jim,


I too have survived a total swamping of an Ensign. The aft end of the boat did not float did not float nearly as well as the "New" boat in Zeke's photos.


You have two options on selection of foam material.


Extuded polystyrene foam (XPS). This is avilable in home centers. Made by Dow, blue or Owens-Corning, Pink. XPS has a smooth skin. Do not use polystyrene bead board. That is white and made by fusing little styrofoam balls into a sheet form. The beadboard will absorb water reducing it's ability as floatation. I would use 2" sheets, layered to fill the void spaces.


The other option is 2 part closed cell urethane foam. Generally, you mix part A and part B liquids in equal amounts in small batches to fill the void spaces. Top access o the spaces is required. Openings at the top are required to allow expansion to relieve. If expansion is not allowed to relieve, damage from expansion may result.


No matter which material you use, you need a plan to allow installation and subsequent repair of openings made to allow installation.


Ward Woodruff

Smoke 1253

Niantic, CT

Nice to know!   I guess it is whatever floats your boat!   I have a  decent size "whale gusher" lever operated manual bilge pump which i recommend in place of any of those dicky electric float switch systems that have an expectrred lifespan of maybe 1-2 years



--
<< sent from my gOOgLEbOOk >>

Anthony Aylward
5912 Munson Court
Falls Church, VA 22041.
tel.  240 603 8008.
We had a few days this past summer with winds 20+. Our bay gets a pretty good steep - short period chop. We took a few waves over the bow that broke at the mast. Water in the boat. You could feel the water moving around. Made the boat hard to control. I could see where you could get swamped.
Bob Panico 
arrow_backReturn to Forum
Sponsor Number URL address
Sponsor 1 https://www.quantumsails.com/en/default
Sponsor 2 http://www.triadtrailers.com/
Sponsor 3 http://www.ussailing.org
Sponsor 4 http://www.northsails.com
Sponsor 5 http://www.spectrumphotofg.com
Sponsor 6 http://www.defender.com
Sponsor 7 http://www.ensignspars.com
Sponsor 9 http://www.patterson-marine.com
Sponsor 10 https://stores.crsapparel.com/ensign_class/shop/home
Sponsor 11 https://zbloksun.com/

ENSIGN CLASS Sponsors