Thanks Mike!

Rich

I removed my coming boards to refinish the deck and the boards themselves. There was no adhesive or sealant on them. That was a huge time saver. I ended up cutting the bronze screws because the nuts were corroded on. Based on the finish underneath, the boards had been removed at least once and reinstalled.

I used all new stainless hardware to reinstall the boards. Finishing washers on the exposed side and with little to no screw exposed on the backside which was better than the old, too long, bronze hardware.

i believe the worst thing that happens without caulk is a little more water finds its way into the bilge at the dock on a rainy day or when sailing in heavy air. But who cares? Boats now have electric bilge pumps. It just pumps out.

And a word on electric bilge pumps. Worth their weight when it’s blowing hard in this boat. A lot of water can come in and everybody needs to be sailing the boat and not bailing. I wasn’t convinced until after our first regatta when it was blowing hard. Get one if you don’t have one.

My opinion,

Mike Vining

USA 101

Second Chance

443 is available to a good home

Hi Bud,

I don't see the actual link. Can you resend?

Thanks!

Rich

Hi Bud and Zeke,

Thank-you for sharing these options. Very helpful! I have to ask, is the purpose simply to prevent water from running behind the coaming boards? Is the product applied at the top edge of the coaming between the wood and the fiberglass? Hopefully my question makes sense.

Bud - when you get a chance could you share the product you use?

Thanks!

Rich

Hi,

I am about to reattach my coaming boards. They were very difficult to get off and I know some kind of adhesive was used to attach them along with 3" screws.

My plan is to use bronze machine screws and bronze nyloc lock nuts with a flat washer. Is it necessary to do anything else or is this adequate? Use of 5200 is of course out of the question. I would like to avoid 4200 as well.

As usual thank-you for the help and assistance.

Rich