I agree the proper type of bronze is far better than stainless

I have had mine off a few times . There is a big bronze shoe on the bottom. It is held on with 4 brass pins that have the heads hammered like a rivot. I was able to punch mine out, but you might have to drill the heads if they won't punch out. The keeper strap on the rudder is also held in place with brass pins.  Once the shoe and the strap are removed the rudder drops down.  I had to dig a very small hole in the ground for clearance or you could jack the trailer up a bit.  Each trailer will be different.  Hope this helps, there have been quite a few write ups on rudders so hopefully you can find them, if not our web master likely can tell you how. When I  reinstalled  the shoe and strap I used 316 stainless machine screws . That bronze shaft is worth a fortune, and lasts far longer than the new stainless replacements. 

I have to do some rudder repairs. On most other boats I have worked on, we have always pulled the rudder and it's post out of the boat to work on it in a shop. Then reinstalled it after the repair was complete. This is my first "full keel" attached rudder repair.

What is the consensus? It looks like everyone is doing even major rudder repairs on Ensigns while still attached. I know it's possible to remove the rudder, Ensign Spars sells new rudders and many here have said they have replaced their rudders. But no one I found has shared how you remove and reinstall a rudder so I can evaluate if the removal for my repair is worthwhile or just adding complexity.

Thanks in advance,

Mike Vining

USA 101