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Ensign Sailing Forum

Mooring questions
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I’d like to put in a plug for Hazelett Moorings. 

 

I believe the generic name is “conservation moorings”.  They are considered “conservation” and mandated in some areas because they work differently than conventional block or mushroom moorings.  The conventional moorings use a chain for the first section of line from the bottom to the top mooring ball and the weight of the chain and curve of the line functions as a bit of a shock absorber (just like with an anchor line).  A Hazelett uses a block at the bottom and then what is essentially a heavy duty bungie cord leading directly to a float.  Heavy duty as in 10,000 pounds for a small one.  Anyway they are “conservation” because aside from the block nothing contacts and scours the bottom vegetation.  You can see some dramatic photos of sea grass growth patterns around marinas with “conversation” versus “conventional” moorings.  In addition the Hazelett Moorings can be left in place through the winter.  You’ve all seen them, instead of a ball you tether your boat to what looks like a vertical pipe.  They are very popular here on Lake Champlain where we can get blasted with 40+knot winds with plenty of distance to build big waves.  Our neighbor marina as never had a Hazlett fail.  You might want to ask around to see if this is available at your lake.

 

https://hazelettmarine.com/

 

John Bakewell

Ephemeral #1047

Burlington, VT

 

     

I tend to agree with Vic. A house or winch on a stable boat is needed to lift a mushroom anchor. Checking the chain and shackles that are sitting on the lake bottom is a good idea every few years.
Twisting of the chains is a real possibility with two anchors and two anchors may leave your boat not aiming directly into the wind. A single mooting chain would keep the boat facing directly into the wind - the best direction when it blows.
Hope this helps.
Nick

Sent from my iPhone

Thanks Vic


I'm at Chautauqua Lake, the other end of NYS. She moored in 12 feet. Storms of 40kts (plus) can come up.


Yep - probably a good idea to start over and do this right. I do believe there is an outfit that will drop and maintain moorings. It's just money - and that comes with boating as you all know.


Great forum - thanks.

Steve,

 

Please remind us where you sail?

 

At Saratoga Lake the anchor chain wraps around the mushroom shaft during the season. I don’t know how well that would work with two anchors. I’m also not sure if two 75 lb. mushrooms have the same holding power as one 150 lb. mushroom.

 

We use a small winch on a Whaler to set and retrieve mushrooms.  I’m not sure how you handle even a 75 lb. mushroom from a rowboat dinghy. You also need to remove the mushroom every few years to check for wear and corrosion of the fittings. I suggest you start a relationship with someone who has the proper equipment to set and retrieve mushrooms.

 

Vic Roberts

 

 

Nick, Vic and others


I really appreciate your prior replies to my prior questions on moorings.


As mentioned before, I inherited a mooring that is anchored with a 75 lb mushroom that we all agree is too light - although she did survive last season. To avoid hiring a contractor (I can't muscle a 150 lb mushroom onto my rowboat dingy) I am wondering what you think if I drop a second anchor and chain and fasten to the existing mooring ball. In other words can the existing anchor and chain plus a new anchor (75 lb) and chain work in series for combined weight of 150 lbs?? or will this end up being an unreliable tangled mess of chains?


Or - should I stop being cheap and just hire a contractor?


thanks as always

Steve

We are moored in a tidal zone, which I’m sure is quite a bit different… and the water where we are is not especially deep, and our mooring field is crowded… so we probably are running less chain than is ideal. But with all of those disclaimers aside…. our mushroom is 300 pounds.



Matt Bailey

#1473 TEETEETOO

Hi All!

As a redundancy, I tie the mooring line around the mast as well.

Steve:
To look into your situation, I referred to Chapman’s Piloting, Seamanship and Small Boat Handling which has been a “bible” of all things boating related for decades.  Also, I thought back to my parent’s Ensign on Manhasset Bay, NY and the mooring gear we had.

I think your anchoring gear is undersized for an Ensign.  A couple of things to consider, and a table in Chapman’s supports this:
- Heavier mushroom anchor - 125 lbs
- More chain:  Chapman’s recommends “heavy chain” of 1.5 times the water depth connected to “light chain” equal to the water depth.  The “light chain” attaches directly to the underside of your mooring buoy.  From there, a pennant goes to the foredeck.  Again, per Chapman’s, the pennant is 2.5 times the hight of the bow off the water, plus what you need to get to the cleat.

Overall, I think you need more weight - from either/both the anchor or more chain.  You seem to have the swing room if your boat drifted 20 feet in a big blow.

The bow cleat is adequate to hold.  If you wish some level of redundancy, and if you use a “tall buoy” together with the mooring ball, you can cleat the line from the “tall buoy” on top of the pennant from the mooring buoy.

I was looking in a 1974 edition of Chapman’s.  Newer editions may have other suggestions.  What I suggest above is what we did in the 1960’s on Manhasset Bay.

Nick Lubar
Ensign 1556
Fleet 29 Cleveland, Ohio


Steve,

 

I can’t comment on the security of the bow cleat. I do not know of any that have failed, but my experience is limited.

 

At Saratoga Lake, home of Fleet 72, we use 150 pound mushroom anchors, and they don’t move even in the very rare tail of a hurricane.

 

See our mooring “how to” page for more information.   https://sailsaratoga.org/ensign-mooring-gear

 

If you have a rocky bottom, a mushroom may not be the best anchor.

 

You will see that we recommend a mooring chain that is about twice the water depth, though West Marine recommends only 1.5 times the water depth.

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Constructing-a-Permanent-Mooring

 

And, as far as I know, increasing the length of the line between the boat and the mooring ball will not compensate for a mooring chain that is too short.

 

Vic Roberts

#2032

 

 

Hi All:


You've been so helpful. I'd like to prevent all the possible means that the mooring fails.


1) There are no redundancies for the main bow cleat -- if that fails, she heads downwind in a hurry. Is the cleat fully integrated into the structure e.g. don't worry about that failing?


2) I inherited the mooring rig from the prior owner. It is based on a 75 lb mushroom anchor with about a 15 foot chain. She sits in 8-10 ft of water. I suspect the chain is shorter than should be? Can I compensate with a longer mooring line from the ball to the boat?


3) I ask because because the last time it was blowing 35kts, the anchor drifted about 20 feet downwind. Maybe the anchor has found a good foot hold now, but I cant be sure.


thanks much for any advice

steve


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