You can also go in through the bulkhead under the seats. I ended up cutting out mine, glassing in new wooden vertical supports and making a new bulkhead that I screwed onto the wooded supports and painted. I did this to replace the foam floatation in the after section as well as installed an under deck back stay adjuster block and tackle. The screwed on bulk head makes it easier to get back there and check for wear on the back stay adjuster line.

I also have inspection ports on the vertical section as Buddy describes

Robin

Hi Ron,

Before you cut any holes, unscrew one of the screws holding your current traveler on, and check to see if it is a wood screw long enough to go through the traveler, the deck and into a wooden cross beam.

When I replaced my traveler a couple of years ago mine was screwed on with stainless wood screws which I reused on the new traveler. So I did not have to cut any inspection ports. I did put sealer into the holes before screwing the screws in and I think I had to drill holes in some new places.

My thinking is that if its been good enough for 50 years should be good enough for a few more. Obviously check to make sure the wood beam is not rotten. My new traveler has held up since I renewed it and have sailed in some heavy air.

Jonathan

Questar 1226

Ron,

See attached photo. #1029's traveller track is located along the top of the aft edge of cockpit. There are two access ports on the vertical face of aft end of cockpit. All of the thru bolts for traveller track are accessible from these two ports.

John

John E. Cutler

Past Commodore Ensign Class Association

#1029 - the other woman

I want to upgrade my traveler on 1357. I just assume to do this I will have to cut and install an inspection port as I cannot access the underside of the rear deck to remove nuts from the existing system. Before I do this, I thought I would check and make sure no one has come up with a work around to cutting an inspection port.

Ron Wright

1357